Visitors face danger in war-torn areas

A view of the Bandiagara Escarpment in Mali, which has been named one of the most dangerous countries to visit. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)

As tourist Zhang Wei landed at the airport in Sanaa, capital of Yemen, he was astonished when his local guide said his vacation had to be canceled due to the unstable situation in the country.

Moreover, Zhang still had to stay in Yemen for a week as planned, because it was impossible to buy a ticket for him to return home to China on an earlier flight.

To avoid risks, you need rich experience, an understanding of the place and extensive connections

Li Yanan, freelance photographer

Zhang, who traveled to Yemen in January 2015, had no idea he was arriving in the run-up to the civil war between the Yemeni government and Houthi rebels.

When his guide took him to downtown Sanaa by car, Zhang became nervous when he saw virtually everyone was carrying assault rifles on the streets and pickup trucks armed with machine guns.

"The tension began to mount at the very start of my trip. I was lucky that I made the flight back to China as planned," said Zhang, 50, a television host in Beijing.

When the situation in Yemen deteriorated in late March 2015, the People's Liberation Army Navy evacuated 571 Chinese nationals from the war-ravaged country on the missile frigate CNS Linyi.

READ MORE: UN envoy to Yemen says momentum to end the war is building

Like Zhang, some tourists from China are traveling to high-risk countries and regions－such as those with volatile political situations or high crime rates－for a variety of reasons. They have to be well-prepared and ready to adjust their plans if necessary.

Zhang Wei poses near Sanaa, capital of Yemen, in January 2015. (PHOTO PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY)

In 2015, Zhang embarked on an ambitious international travel itinerary, aiming to visit one continent every year. As a result of his experiences in Yemen, he now reads travel advisories released by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs before planning his trips, and avoids war-torn regions.

He said fatal incidents during trips can be categorized as natural or man-made, such as earthquakes or riots, and some cannot be predicted.

ALSO READ: MSF hospital hit during Houthi attack in Yemen

"You can only make adjustments, restrain your emotions and go with any changes. I was robbed in Europe and just had to resign myself to it, as I obviously couldn't get my money back," he said.

He said that during a curfew, he was the only guest at a seven-story hotel in Sanaa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The hotel provided a cook to prepare breakfast, a security guard and a housekeeper especially for him.

"The minute I stepped into my room, I saw a bullet hole in the window. The first night, I was too scared to fall asleep and I heard guns thundering from time to time. I didn't even turn on the light," he said.

Zhang invited his tour guide to join him for breakfast on the hotel verandah, from where they saw field guns firing into the sky.

Despite this, the guide insisted on taking him on a tour of the city and nearby areas. The local tourism board issued permits for him to show at checkpoints.

As Zhang's fears began to fade a few days later, he strolled the streets with his guide. Outside of Sanaa, life was returning to normal.

"For a perfect trip, you should know about local history and culture, respect customs, and don't judge them by your own standards. You should socialize with the locals and live as they do. You should also understand their social rules and political structures," he said.

"Due to my extensive travels, I now fully understand the meaning of life."

A girl plays in Kabul, Afghanistan. (LI YANAN / FOR CHINA DAILY)

Friendly locals

Shen Dianqi started his trip to North and South America on March 15, and has traveled to 13 countries so far, including Brazil, El Salvador and Costa Rica. He has also visited destinations that do not have diplomatic relations with China, such as Honduras and Nicaragua.

"I like Colombia very much. The locals are friendly, helped me without expecting anything in return, and they like to make friends with foreigners," said Shen, an entrepreneur from Hangzhou, capital of Zhejiang province.

On his travels, he immerses himself in local culture and history, visits Chinese immigrants to learn their stories, and updates his diary on Sina Weibo, where he has more than 480,000 followers.

Shen said Chinese immigrants are hard-working and they open small businesses, including restaurants. But it is not easy for them to make a living in some regions, as they may be kidnapped or even killed by gangs for money.

"It's risky visiting places that are unstable, and even if you turn to the local police, they may not act. You should know the places that are safer in a high-risk country and avoid visiting dangerous areas."

Shen was robbed of cash and his passport by a motorcyclist in Egypt and had to seek help from other tourists and the Chinese embassy.

He suggested that tourists in high-risk areas avoid showing their cash and wearing expensive jewelry and watches. They should also not go out at night.

Freelance photographer Li Yanan, 31, has been to a number of places considered dangerous, including Afghanistan, Iraq, Syria and the Gaza Strip.

Ancient Roman ruins in Dougga, northern Tunisia. (ZHANG WEI / FOR CHINA DAILY)

He provides domestic and overseas media outlets with photos that he risks his life to take, and last year he was named as one of the top 50 influencers by the tourism website Qyer.

"I go to these places purely for work, not for sightseeing. I don't want to gain a shallow understanding of them through cursory observation," he said.

He hires experienced local fixers who make a living by taking reporters and photographers to interview and film locals. Li's subjects range from government officials to members of the public.

He said that when he was in Iraq and Syria, he was with army personnel, so any risk was reduced to the minimum.

In March, he and a Chinese colleague traveled to Kurdish-held areas in Syria for interviews and to take photos, where they met local soldiers, ate with them and sat in their pickup trucks.

But the situation was different in Afghanistan, which he said was the most dangerous country to visit.

"It's the uncertainty－a bomb may go off on the street at any time. Also, individuals may come across a robbery or an abduction," he said.

He has been to Afghanistan five times since 2013, accumulating considerable experience, and he knows the places that are the most dangerous, where there is a higher risk of explosions.

"To avoid risks, you need rich experience, an understanding of the place and extensive connections," Li said.

He selects his destinations based on their news value and also on the availability of reliable local fixers.

"My fixers took me around to take photos and helped me solve some problems. Moreover, I could experience authentic Afghan life with them," he said.

A rock formation near Sanaa, Yemen. (ZHANG WEI / FOR CHINA DAILY)

Camera hidden

In August 2017, he visited Syria to photograph scenes of chaos and people's daily lives. To his surprise, Damascus, the capital, was peaceful, with life continuing as normal. There was even a traffic jam.

"War is only temporary, and a battle won't last 24/7. Everyday life is the real normality. For common people in war-torn regions, shopping for food is more important than resisting with a gun," he said.

On the streets of Syria, he hid his camera in a rucksack he carried in front of his chest, taking photos unobserved from time to time.

He carried a small, empty memory card for his camera in his pocket, to be ready for anything.

Li said the sound of the guns was much louder than the heavy bass effect on a stereo system, adding that they were often fired onto vacant ground and sometimes into a forest behind the restaurant he dined at.

"It's lucky that I didn't encounter any danger. This may be because I am sensitive to potential risks," he said.

"The more I ponder why different regions end up in a critical state, the more questions I have and the more photos I want to take."

He said it's not a good idea to visit war-stricken areas purely as a tourist. In addition to the bad travel experience, people are risking their lives. This is irresponsible behavior, but some do it purely for the novelty value.

"A trip should be about relaxing body and mind, rather than putting oneself in a danger zone. If I'm traveling purely for leisure, I will definitely visit a safe destination."

Dong, a tourism industry worker who declined to give his full name, said most Chinese tourists wishing to visit war-ravaged countries such as Syria and Iraq are seeking novelty and want to update their travel notes on social media. Only a few travel to such places for academic purposes.

"The chance of encountering danger is not high, but once it happens, it can be lethal－for example, being kidnapped," said Dong, who has visited Syria and Iraq.

"You need both money and connections to ensure safety. These tourists read others' online travel notes and trust to luck that they will be safe."

xulin@chinadaily.com.cn